The Bastille Burger

Posted on July 14, 2014 by The Hungry Bon Vivant

Arc-de-TriompheWITH the Tour de France in full swing and today begin Bastille Day my aptly named Bastille Burger is inspired by the classic French bistro toasted ham and cheese sandwich – the croque monsieur.

The croque monsieur is a grilled or fried ham and cheese sandwich (Gruyère or emmental cheese is usually used) with the top of the sandwich having a layer of béchamel sauce on it. Thought to have originated in Paris cafes back in 1910, it is found throughout France and is served as a snack or casual meal.

In a tribute to what could be regarded as the world’s finest toastie (and to the country that gave us Liberté, égalité, fraternité and Briget Bardot), I present you the Bastille Burger:

THE BURGER
1 kg beef mince
1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp of herbes de Provence (if you can’t get these then equal parts of dried tarragon, thyme and oregano).
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
Sea salt and black pepper

BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp flour
3/4 cup whole milk
Sea salt and ground black pepper
2 tbsp Parmigiano (grated)
Gruyère cheese (grated) (about 3/4 cup).

TO SERVE
6 to 8 soft burger buns, split and toasted (or you can use brioche)
Shaved ham off the bone
Sliced dill pickles (sliced lengthwise)
Dijon mustard
Slices (or shredded) Gruyère cheese
Béchamel sauce

20140708-125440-46480470.jpgMETHOD
Mix the mince with all the burger ingredients. Once mixed thoroughly (don’t over knead or the burger will be tough), divide into six or eight patties. Make a small oval depression on the top of each patty so when the burger cooks it rounds out evenly.

Start making the béchamel sauce by adding the butter in a small saucepan on low heat and melting until foamy. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly with a flat sauce whisk until smooth (about 2 minutes). Slowly add milk, stirring continuously and cook until the mixture thickens – enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 2 minutes). Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in Parmigiano and grated Gruyère. Reserve until ready.

Toast your halved burger buns and set aside ready for assembly.

Wrap the slices of ham off the bone in aluminium foil and warm in a moderate oven.

Grill your burgers to your liking. Make sure the grill is hot and you oil the grill. Place each burger on it – a high heat will ensure a good crust around the burger. Avoid flipping too often or pressing down on the burger as you want to keep all the flavour and juices inside. Like with all meat – allow the burgers to rest.

ASSEMBLY
Take top burger bun and add a good layer of béchamel on to the top and place again under the grill to allow béchamel to slightly brown. Spread the toasted bun halves with béchamel, dividing evenly and extending all the way to the edges. Assemble the burger with the remainder of the ingredients from the bottom bun by adding the warmed leg ham, Dijon mustard, burger, Gruyère cheese, sliced pickle and top with the other bun half.

Serve with a side of fries.

 

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Kopitiam Cafe (Laksa)

Posted on June 17, 2014 by The Hungry Bon Vivant

KopitiamON my walk to work the other morning I suddenly developed a laksa craving after I passed Kopitiam Cafe on Harris Street at Ultimo – a small cafe that has been at the site since 1999 serving up Malaysian staples to homesick Malays.

I used to work five buildings down from Kopitiam Cafe in the late ’90s and I had always meant to go there (but the attraction of Sydney’s Chinatown just down the road was even more inviting to a young HBV who had just moved to the Big Smoke).

So, after 14 years I finally made the effort to take another stroll down Harris Street one lunchtime and pop into Kopitiam hoping to get an authentic laksa.

Kopitiam Cafe is just up from the powerhouse Museum and has a very interesting menu featuring street food hawker dishes as well as an array of Malaysian specialties. Aside from the usual char kway teo and beef rendang there is claypot loh see fun (which translates to ‘rats’ tail noodles’ as the noodles are round and fat and are stir-fried with dark soy, pork mince, pork fat, chili and bean sprouts), as well as nasi lemak, and fish head curry.

I was here for laksa so some of the other tempting dishes need to wait for another occasion (hopefully not another 14 years).

When thinking of laksa I always anticipate the Singaporean/Nonya style. Kopitiam’s chicken laksa ($10) is more curry mee (and it wasn’t what I was really expecting). Curry mee is the Malaysian curry laksa and there are different versions of it.

Kopitiam Cafe - LaksaThe “laksa” came out less than two minutes of ordering. It was a large bowl with a lot of thin rice noodles topped with blanched bean sprouts, half a boiled egg, fried tofu and large chunks of curried chicken and potato. It was if the last two ingredients may be interchangeable between the chicken laksa and Kopitiam’s chicken curry.

A lot of effort has gone into the soup – it was rich and creamy with a nice curry flavour with pieces of curry leaf (there were even a couple of bits of curry leaf stem in it), as well as fried onions. Alas there was not enough fiery chili heat – a good dollop of sambal would have been nice. It would be interesting to see if there is any similarity between the laksa soup and the curry chicken gravy.

Kopitiam’s chicken laksa was a very filling dish with good flvours but was not what I was expecting – it was more a soupy Malaysian chicken curry with noodles.

The verdict: I prefer the Singaporean/Nonya style of laksa but with the crowds of Malays and a menu featuring street dishes you thought would be only available in Malaysia, it is clear why Kopitiam Cafe has been around for 15 years. Will be back to try the Malaysian specialties.

What: Kopitiam Cafe, 594 Harris St, Ultimo, NSW, Australia. Open seven days  from noon to 3pm.

Ate there: June 2014.

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Ralph’s Delicatessen

Posted on June 10, 2014 by The Hungry Bon Vivant

Ralph's Deli.jpg“YOU’LL find it at Ralph’s,” the Baroness of Balmain instructed me. She was right. Not only was I able to source Maggie Beer’s verjuice but I was also able to pick up a bottle of Spanish pedro ximenez sherry vinegar as an alternative to Balsamic (something I am still looking at trying in a future culinary endevour).

Ralph’s Delicatessen is a Balmain institution and has been in the inner-Sydney suburb for more than 40 years when it was opened by Ralph Aliperti and his father in 1972 (who named the deli after young Ralph as he would one day continue running the deli).

Ralph's - Pasta.jpgThis family-run business on Darling Street is a treasure trove of culinary jewels and is such an incredible place that it is difficult to know where to begin. And that’s where Baroness thinks I should stop because as she puts it you can get everything at Ralph’s (and she’s right as she has always given them a call when she desperately needs an usual food item that a recipe calls for and Ralph has always delivered).

Ralph’s brings back fond memories of another deli institution – Vari’s on The Parade in the Adelaide suburb of Norwood – so I’m happy to write a few more pars.

It is possible to spend a good half an hour in the place just exploring (I could of but I was conscious that continual lurking would make me a shoplifting suspect).

There are wares from all four corners of the globe as well as home-made food items. Imported and local cheeses stand side by side with olives, salami and sausages, meat cuts and antipasti tidbits in a display fridge. 

20130419-163614.jpgThe shelves are packed with jars, tins and packets.

Ralph’s also has a huge range of olive oils and vinegar, an assortment of mustard and pickles, as well as jam and marmalade and other spreads; international confectionery, and chilli sauces from around the world (the Caribbean Walkerswood and Pikapeppa, a few varieties of Tabasco and the chili die-hards – Blair’s Death Sauces). He also stocks some of the top names in Italian pasta and sauces.

Ralph’s just isn’t a deli for the Europhile – there’s also a section of Asian sauces and staples, Irish and South American foods and Middle Eastern canned and jarred items (the Turkish Ajvar is a favourite).

20130419-163547.jpgAny decent Italian deli worth its salt would have a selection of homemade meals and Ralph’s has top quality stuff in all wonderful forms. It’s the freezer section that deserves the most attention when you visit here. Inside are homemade soups (like chorizo, cabbage and capsicum); and other “just like nonna use to make favourites” such as a Bolognese ragu made with veal mince and pork ribs (from $15). Trust me, this is a very special sauce.

You can even get a fresh sandwich made to order and a espresso and if you can’t find that item you’re looking for – just ask (it will probably be handed to you).

As the Baroness says: “You’ll find it at Ralph’s.”

The verdict: A Balmain living treasure on par with Balmain ‘s Dawn Fraser.

What: Ralph’s Delicatessen, 337 Darling Street, Balmain, NSW 2041 Australia. Phone: (02) 9810 2340. Open from 8am until 8pm.

Will go there: When I know the local supermarket won’t have it or when Baroness tells me to.

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